Sunday 11 May 2014

Angler, London

Angler was a surprise recipient of a Michelin Star last September, a seafood restaurant quietly going about its business. It is based on the top floor of the South Place Hotel in Moorgate and attracts the local City workers judging from the clientele during our visit. The dining area is long and narrow and it is a shame that the window side currently overlooks a building site across the road so there is not much of a view. Anyway back to the purpose of this post and the blog, being the food. We were presented with a cheese nibble as we browsed the menus which reminded me of mini cheddars. 

For starters the sauteed langoustines jumped out at me, served with slow cooked lamb breast, asparagus tip and puree. The dish was beautifully presented and I couldn't help but notice the plate which was familiar and also used by Aiden Byrne at Manchester House. The langoustines were plump and the star of the dish, the lamb breast had a slow braised Asian style in turns of flavour.

We ordered from both the a la carte and set dinner menus which at £25/£30 for 2/3 courses with no restrictions seems a steal. My dining partner chose sauteed lamb sweetbreads, mint jelly, peas and cured ham.

Not knowing if I would ever get the chance to return given the huge number of restaurants on my to do list I pushed the boat out with the main and picked the roasted turbot with a ragout of squid, fennel puree and sea purslane. The generous fillet from the 'King of the Sea' was firm and meaty as it should be, however I couldn't help but think the dish needed another veg element. The serving of squid ragout under the turbot was too much and fatigue set in with the chewy texture towards the end of the dish.

Loch Var salmon, soft olive crust, braised gem lettuce, spring vegetable nage.

Yoghurt and honey parfait, gariguette and wild strawberries, lemon curd, not as sweet as anticipated with the honey struggling to come through but a fresh refreshing dessert overall.

The pick of the desserts came from the set menu, sticky prune pudding, bergamot marmalade and brown butter ice cream. A sticky yet not stodgy pudding with an ideal foil in the smooth ice cream, could eat a bucket load of this!

Some petit fours to finish included hot pistachio and marzipan cakes and a chocolate toffee.

Angler on Urbanspoon

Square Meal

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