Albion, Crosby

Albion opened a few months ago in Crosby, a short drive North of the centre of Liverpool. It is the latest venture from Steven Burgess who also co-founded Camp & Furnace and helmed the kitchen and in the process lifted the citys food scene with inventive offerings and events. Friday Food Slams were a personal favourite for an informal drink and bite to eat along with special events attracting the likes of culinary heavyweights Glyn Purnell and Ben Spalding to the city in collaboration projects.

The menu at Albion is full of inventive dishes with elements in homage to historical English dishes as indicated by the year on the menu. Being loyal followers of Chefs food we were treated to a few snacks before our starters including pork dustings with a sticky gentleman’s relish dip, homemade crisps of beetroot, parsnip, potato and sage which be my ideal snack with a cold beer and beer bread cooked in hay with an English mustard butter.

For starters we chose Cumbrian mutton & treacle bacon turnover, cucumber chutney and a dish from the specials board of mackerel fillet, roasted plums, samphire and cucumber. The turnover was an enjoyable dish as was the mackerel although Mrs Nom thought the plums were slightly too sour.

The pricing at Albion is extremely competitive for the quality of food served up, with starters ranging from £4-£7 and mains from £12 - £15. We tried the roasted cod loin, Brancaster crab salad, summer vegetables and English mustard and slow braised beef shin, crispy potato, balmoral sauce and shredded bacon. The very well slow cooked beef shin was deceptive in its size and was well matched with the balmoral sauce, I soon hit the food wall, the crispy treats before the starters may have caused this!

The range of desserts all sounded heavy and after the amount of food we consumed didn’t sound so appealing but we had to try at least one so picked the ‘Poor Knights of Windsor’ with hot sherry jam and hokey pokey cinder toffee. The honeycomb was the highlight and melted and crunched in the mouth at the same time. 

On a repeat visit another day we were treated to a pre starter treat of Burford brown egg, black pudding, samphire and cucumber pickle. From the specials a starter of marmite glazed beef cheek, hot cheddar sauce and garden relishes starter was sensational and is my favourite dish from Albion so far. The glazed added a rich comforting texture and the cheek fell away as it flaked with ease under the slightest pressure from the fork.

Albion fish pie with crab, cod topped with Mrs Kirkham’s cheese mash, buttered peas & onions. A Yorkshire pudding side with veal gravy sounded lush but sadly was slightly dense, not that I could have fitted it in anyway.

Jam roly poly and school custard, a more sophisticated version of the classic from school days.

Albion has started life strongly and with endless passion from Chef who enjoys interacting with the punters listening to feedback without any ego, we can only see it going from strength to strength. Well thought out comforting food with presentation to match.

All paid for in full with the exception of the snacks which were kindly provided with compliments from Chef.